Break the bones of the cheek, and well wash and clean it. Put it into a large stewpan, with about two ounces of butter at the bottom, and lay the fleshy side of the cheek downwards. Add about half a pound of lean ham, sliced.
Put in four heads of celery cut small, three large onions, two carrots, one parsnip sliced, and three blades of mace.
Set it over a moderate fire for about a quarter of an hour, after which add four quarts of water, and let it simmer gently until it is reduced to two.
If you wish to use it as a soup only, strain it clear off, and put in the white part of a head of celery cut in small pieces, with a little browning to make it of a fine colour.
Scald two ounces of vermicelli, and put it in the soup. Let it boil ten minutes, and pour it into your tureen, with the crust of a french roll, and serve it up.
If it is to be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as possible, and have ready a boiled turnip and carrot cut in square pieces, a slice of bread toasted, and cut small; put in some Cayenne pepper, strain the soup through a hair sieve upon the whole, and serve it up.
Taken from Duncan MacDonald, The New London Family Cook, c. 1800